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Lagos

Central Ibadan

In the shadow of the 26 storey Cocoa House (Africa’s tallest structure at one point – 1964-65 , architect?, contractor Cappa and D’Alberto) is a small, much more interesting, circular building clad in mosaic and topped with a dome. The splayed cantilevered entrance leads to a swimming pool with beautiful concrete diving boards and viewing gallery. The circular building is now a night-club.

From here we visited the library complex and another domed building with vertical brise-soleil used by FirstBank. We continued to Fry and Drew’s Co-operative bank tower with its associated set of structures set behind, including the Obisesan Hall (similar to Trenchard Hall in its outline but lacking the expensive materials and finish) and a series of shops and flats. It’s an interesting grouping of projects covering a city block and bringing together office, assembly, retail, and residential spaces into a mixed use constellation.

Opposite is Design Group’s Finance House (now Aje House) with the concave mosaic above the entrance. The Nigerian Broadcasting house is also here, again clad in the distinctive blue tessellating tiles that are a key feature of Ibadan’s modernist structures. The Kingsway store (by T P Bennett, 1960) has a distinctive tower competing for attention as Ibadan’s architecture increased its scale and storey heights during the post-independence boom. Each façade of the store is given a different treatment – the tricolour mosaic façade responds to the Broadcasting House opposite and whilst the east and west facing facades are treated with vast brise soleil built on rubble walling. It’s a major project, and once the largest store in the city fitted out with fine materials. Part of the building is still occupied, but it’s dilapidated and suffering from years of neglect. 

John Holts offices sits opposite and the United Africa Company offices is also amongst this mercantile cluster, with its distinctive symmetrical ‘deco’ façade and projecting canopies could be a late James Lomax-Simpson project?

We couldn’t visit Ibadan without calling at the modernist campus at University of Ibadan. We visited Trenchard Hall and the administrative block, as well as Kenneth Dike Library. As well as these Fry and Drew classics we revisited the small Chapel of the Resurrection designed by ecclesiastical architect George Pace (1915–75).

Off campus it was a real privilege to finally visit the Dominican Chapel by Demas Nwoko (b1935)- winner of the Venice Bienalle Golden Lion Award 2023. This tribute was long overdue for this visionary polymath artist. His work is difficult to describe, but easy to understand and enjoy. Architecture is Nwoko’s medium. He uses architecture (i.e. space, light, volume, materials, procession) as others sculpt clay or apply paint.

The chapel has various layers – each element works as a distinct component whilst adding to the whole. I particularly enjoyed the loggia at the back of the chapel, as well as the flow of light down from the steeple onto the alter below. It’s quirky and full of whimsey, but there are no gimmicks or affected gestures – it’s a beautiful chapel and a joyful place.

Buildings from Unilag Campus, Lagos.

Here’s a few more structures from Unilag beyond the well-known examples from the centre of campus.

Architecture School and surrounding buildings.

Queen Amina Hall – could this be a Design Group project? The concrete screens, elevational treatment and form suggest it might be [or an overlooked Alan Vaughan-Richards design perhaps?]. Opposite the Hall is another structure with a similar concrete screen motif, and adjacent is the Education building. These are carefully designed structures and expertly detailed and constructed – but we don’t know anything more on the design team and architect.

The Management building has an excellent (and overlooked) courtyard. It really enhances the space, creates a hidden garden, and turns the utilitarian corridor/circulation space into a place worth spending time in (just ignore the new extension/entrance lobby and plastic grass).

Engineering Labs: Heavy interlocking concrete louvres at first floor level with Y beams projecting beyond the building line at roof level supporting clerestory lights and roof structure. It’s a brutalist reimagining of the James Cubitt Engineering block at Kumasi – but twice the size….

Unilag is an important campus with a highly valuable and important set of late modernist post-colonial architecture. There’s a lot more work required here to identify the architects and to produce a campus map, gazetteer, and environmental analysis of these significant buildings.

Niger House by James Lomax-Simpson. Designed for the Niger Company after they were bought out in 1920 by Lever Brothers. Lever wanted to consolidate their various offices and retail units in Lagos into a central location overlooking the Marina. The only good site available was owned by Trading Association of Nigeria. To obtain the site Lever purchased the entire company and Lomax-Simpson designed the new building there. It had a retail space on the ground floor with staff lounges and accommodation above. It wasn’t to Lever’s taste and he complained about it having a ‘town hall’ feel.

New windows have been punched through the portico and an additional storey added. In the same district of Lagos is Wilberforce House, built for Manchester cotton traders G B Ollivant. The United Africa Company was formed by the merger of Niger Company and African and Eastern, and they went on to purchase G B Ollivant in 1933.

Wilberforce House was constructed by Taylor Woodrow West Africa (and the UAC had a 50% stake in this business too).

Perhaps the most well-known UAC owned business was Kingsway Stores. They had branches across West Africa. The Lagos branch filled an entire city block and was originally designed as a store and office for the African and Eastern Trading Corporation. The Deco style portico was added later.

Central Lagos- quick picture show before (Nigeria Magazine 1962) and after (Jan 2024):

Western House by Nickson and Borys

Niger House for UAC by Watkins Grey

Book shop House Godwin Hopwood

Elder Dempster by James Cubitt – heavily modified with the new glazed facade.

Bristol Hotel by Godwin and Hopwood

Godwin and Hopwood Residence, Godwin and Hopwood

YMCA – slender single room deep plan, exposed staircase at the gable with concrete wrapping around. Commercial retail units at the base, pavilion and garden at the roof. Cracking scheme – but who is the architect?

Alan Vaughan-Richards House

Alan Vaughan-Richards (1925–1989) studied at the AA and worked for Architects Co-Partnership in Nigeria before establishing his own practice in Lagos.  His house and studio in Ikoyi, Lagos has featured on the TAG blog before as part of the archiving and digitisation of Vaughan-Richards’ drawings undertaken by Ola Uduku, and further published here: https://www.taylorfrancis.com/chapters/edit/10.4324/9780429506765-16/alan-vaughan-richards-archive-ola-uduku .

The house was originally planned as five interlocking circular rooms – responding to Yoruba housing forms. It contained a water feature, disco-lights, and a hardwood bar too. Set within the sweeping walls are built-in furniture, seating, storage and carefully curated spaces for art and sculpture. In section the light flows in from the roofscape, whilst also ventilating the passively cooled space. Vaughan-Richards collaborated with various artists and sculptors to produce door screens (one includes a carving of the house), furniture, and panels that feature in almost every space. A seating area cantilevers over the garden and once offered views over the lagoon beyond (now reclaimed land and gradually being built upon). The materials, natural ventilation, and careful positioning of the windows create delightful interiors with views out over the landscape and the giant trees that are home to African Greys. The house is a compact and modest scale with a refreshing lack of pretensions.  It was gradually extended by Vaughan-Richards to accommodate his growing family and a new floor was added above.

Outside the main property is a geodesic domed room providing additional visitor space and also used for exhibitions and events.

Vaughan-Richards designed many buildings across Nigeria. He really deserves a monograph dedicated to his important work. We also visited King JaJa hall at Unilag that was designed by Vaughan-Richards.

Thank you to Remi Vaughan-Richards for allowing us to visit the house and to Oluwaseyi Akerele for showing us JaJa and the campus.

UNILAG – The Central Core

The University of Lagos, located in Akoka district of the city, was established in the early 1960s to provide a new centre of learning for the city. The campus and its significance is currently being researched  by Adefola Toye as part of her PhD investigation, and she’s recently published an introductory article in the latest Docomomo special edition too).

We spent the morning walking around the campus, and this was the first quality that resonated – it is walkable. It’s also more integrated into its urban context – rather than isolated on a remote hilltop like so many other universities in the region. Equally, there are tranquil elements and solitude, especially along the waterfront overlooking the lagoon. 

The central core is overlooked by Senate House tower and podiums designed by James Cubitt architects in the 1980s – all of the familiar brise soleil and double-skin façade motifs but extruded, layered, and clad in mosaic tiles. The brise soleil are actually hollow forms with a thin layer of cement and mosaic. There’s the classic Cubitt curved concrete motif (as seen on the Elder Dempster buildings in Lagos and Freetown).

Senate House faces into the plaza-precinct of the university, and here the campus responds to the landscape – both reacting the gradient that leads to the lagoon beyond, and as a man-made series of platforms, routes, and under crofts. It’s a space that has been crafted to catch the lagoon breeze and designed for gatherings, ceremonies, performances, and spending time with friends. The core campus buildings, designed by American practice Robert S. McMillan Associates in the early 1960s, overlook and enclose the space, including the university library and council chamber drum. They’re not forming a street but more of a town square. The administrative buildings are also here, located within a protective shaded courtyard and solitary palm tree. The scale shifts from the large public space into a much more intimate enclosure. The concrete former is expressed on all these buildings to reveal the timber grain, expertly cast into projecting scooped forms, parapets, and balustrades. There’s a heavy, confident, solidity to the composition of the facades. The horizontal soffits of the roofscape frames the visas, respond to the multi-level precinct feel, and are adequately matched with the vertical window bays and concrete fins. The sombre materiality of the ubiquitous concrete is relieved with unexpected blasts of colour, such as the gold mosaic on the J F Ade Ajayi Auditorium.